This is Jelado 301XX releasing in the fall of 2020, and the company's main selling point is the use of LAST RESORT, a denim fabric developed based on the results of cutting Levi's XX deadstock and analyzing the denim yarn to recreate the XX fabric. The details are based on Levi's 501XX from the early to mid 1950s.
patch
A leather patch with the inscription "Age of Longing" on it. It seems to be made of horsehide. There is no description of the length of the patch, perhaps because it is designed to be hemmed up.
back pocket
The back pockets are symmetrical on the Levi's 501XX, but on the Gerrard 301XX, they are asymmetrical. The left pocket is shown in the photo, but the right pocket is similarly shaped with the right side bulged out. The right side of the right pocket is also bulged out. Also, on the Levi's 501XX, the back pockets are mounted parallel to the back yoke, whereas on the Gerard 301XX, the back pockets are mounted at an angle to the back yoke.
tab
A red tab with the word "JELADO" on one side only. Personally, I don't think it's a good idea to put a red tab in this position due to trademark issues.
beltloop
The belt loops in the center of the dress match the seams. In Levi's terms, this is a detail from until 1952,3. After that, it is an offset belt loop sewn in a different position from the seam. The width of the belt loops is 1.2mm, which is narrower, and is in line with the mid to late middle and high end of the so-called one-sided tabs in vintage jeans. The center of the belt loop is raised like replica jeans, but not too much. The belt loops are also attached to the waist belt by so-called "banzai" sewing. By the way, there is one orange and one yellow stitch on the left side of the belt loop.
concealed rivet
"JLO & CO -JPN-" stamped on it. It seems to be made of copper, but if the target is mid 1950s, copper-plated iron would be more suitable. However, the shape and texture of this model is a good reproduction of vintage Levi's.
top button
It seems to be made of plated iron to hold a magnet. Compared to 501XX buttons of 1950's, the luster is a little lower. This is my personal opinion, but I think this is more original than 501XX.
front button
There are five buttons, including the top button. A 28" Levi's 503BXX, the same as the one shown here, would have four. However, it should be noted that the inseam is a bit deeper than the vintage one.
fly button
Made of plated iron, just like the top button. The texture gives the same impression as the top button.
top button (back)
No imprint on the back of the button. There is a V-shaped stitching on the side of the button. The chain stitching underneath the waistband is a bit too much for a 1950s reproduction.
rivet
Like the hidden rivets, this rivet has "JLO & CO -JPN-" stamped on it. It seems to be made of copper, as there is no magnetic reaction. I feel more comfortable with copper-plated iron rivets.
coin pocket (back)
A coin pocket is vertical and the other side is horizontal. This is a reasonable detail for a reproduction of 501XX of mid 1950s.
crotch
Only inverted U-shape reinforcement and no cannulae stopper. Many replicas use very thick yarns, but this one uses very thick yarns.
outseam, selvedge
The faded red ears seem to be well represented. The hem has orange stitching on the top thread and yellow stitching on the bottom thread, which also gives it a vintage feel. However, for most people, the length is based on the assumption that the hem will be raised.
fabric
Compared to the actual vintage of early to mid 1950s, the reddish color is already strong with the glue on it. According to the introduction video on You Tube, the manufacturer explains that the jeans were dyed with stable whiteness to avoid unevenness of dyeing as seen in vintage jeans, but I'm worried that this would have a bad effect on the reproduction of vintage and would not be so different from the replica jeans. On the other hand, the slubby and nepy feeling may not be enough for replica jeans fans, but it is not too strong, and I like it as a reproduction of real vintage jeans from early to mid 1950s. Anyway, I think it's worth to try to see if it's worth removing the glue and putting them on.
size | waist |
seat | front rise | back rise | thigh | inseam | opening | total length |
W28/- | 30 | 40 | 13 | 16.5 | 11.5 | 35.5 | 8.5 | 48 |